The village of Sangeorgiu de Meses lies on the southern flank of the Meses mountains, in the old Hungarian-Romanian borderland of Salaj, and its name carries the saint of horsemen, George, and the mountain that gives the area its character. It is a place that rides begin and end, which suits it well: a quiet village with a church, a shop, a couple of bars, and an easy exit onto roads that climb in several directions. A few kilometres away is Cizer, and a little further, the small settlements of Starciu and Mal, each with its own cluster of orchards and farm tracks.
The Meses range is a low, forested ridge, but it has a big history. In Roman times it was the northern limit of the province of Dacia, and the line of watchtowers on its crest looked out over the lands beyond. Later, it separated Transylvania from the Hungarian plain, and the region was a mix of peoples: Romanians, Hungarians and some Germans, each with their own church. In the villages, you can often see both Orthodox and Reformed churches within a few hundred metres of each other. The rural architecture is charming, with steep roofs, carved gates and long gardens.
The riding around the village is exactly what you want after a long day. The roads are narrow, curving over gentle hills with small climbs and descents, through meadows and woodland. The surface is a mix, some of it excellent and some of it patched and bumpy, and speeds are low. It is a pleasure to ride slowly in the evening, when the light turns the hills gold and the smell of woodsmoke drifts across the road. In winter the area is cold and snowy, and the minor roads can be icy.
As for supplies, the village has the basics, but fuel and supermarkets are fifteen kilometres away in Crasna, a town of around six thousand. Carry some cash for the village shops, and expect a friendly welcome. If someone invites you in for coffee or a shot of palinca, accept the coffee at least. The best season for riding is from May to October, and September, with the plums and the first mist, is hard to beat.