Sangay is one of the most active volcanoes on Earth, a cone of a little over five thousand two hundred metres that has been erupting more or less continuously for centuries. It stands in the eastern Andes of Ecuador, at the centre of a national park that was listed as a World Heritage Site in 1983, and the park covers a remarkable range of habitats, from glaciers and páramo down through cloud forest to Amazonian rainforest. The altitude difference between the top of the mountain and the lowest part of the park is more than four thousand metres.
The park is home to mountain tapirs, Andean bears, pumas and a rich bird life, including the Andean condor. The tapir, a shy and rare animal of the high forests, is one of the symbols of the place. The area is remote and rugged, and most of it can only be reached on foot, with permits and a guide, but the road from Riobamba to Macas, which crosses the northern part of the park, gives a view of the landscape from the saddle.
That road is among the most atmospheric in Ecuador. From Riobamba it climbs into the páramo, with views of Chimborazo and other peaks behind, then crosses a high pass in cold mist and wind before dropping steeply to the east, through cloud forest, waterfalls and tropical vegetation. The air changes from alpine to jungle in a couple of hours, and the temperature rises with every kilometre. The road has many bends, and in places the surface is damaged by landslides and rain, so go carefully and be ready for sudden fog, rain and cold.
Riobamba, the nearest large town, lies about forty kilometres away, with over a hundred thousand people, so fill the tank there before the climb, since stations are not frequent on the high section. The town is a good base, with a market, hotels and the old railway station, and the local dish, hornado, roast pork with potatoes, is a hearty meal. Bring warm and waterproof clothing, even on a sunny morning.
The best season for views is the drier months in the highlands, from June to September, but the weather here is unpredictable at any time of year. Start early to have clear mountain views, before the clouds build in the afternoon.