Sand Harbor is where Lake Tahoe shows off. A cluster of smooth granite boulders sits in water so clear that it looks like glass, with pale sand coves between them, and the colour of the lake runs from bright aqua in the shallows to deep blue just beyond. The setting is a Nevada state park on the east shore, and in high summer it is among the busiest beaches on the lake, with the car park often full by mid-morning. Come early or late, and it is very different.
The ride along the east shore is part of the draw. State Route 28 runs north from Incline Village, hugging the shore with long, easy curves, gentle climbs and wide views across the lake to the snowy Sierra ridges. It is not a technical road, and the speed limit is low, but the combination of pines, granite and water makes it feel unusually pretty. Heavy summer traffic and the occasional jam mean patience is needed. The best time is early morning in June or September, or at sunset, when the light turns the lake pink. Winter can bring snow, ice and closures.
There is also a cultural side. The Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival is held at Sand Harbor in summer, with outdoor performances on a stage set among the rocks and the lake as a backdrop, which sounds improbable until you see it. The nearby Thunderbird Lodge, a stone mansion built in the 1930s by the eccentric millionaire George Whittell, shows another side of the shore's history, and the surrounding hills were once heavily logged to feed the silver mines of Virginia City. The lake itself is cold, deep and clear, and swimming is bracing even in August.
Sand Harbor has a day-use fee, and parking can be full on summer weekends, so plan accordingly. Incline Village, about seven kilometres away, is a small resort town with fuel, supermarkets and restaurants, and Kings Beach, on the California side, is another option. Boat rentals and a seasonal snack bar are available at the park, but bring your own water. Wear sunscreen, remember that the altitude intensifies the sun, and take care on the rocks, which are slippery when wet.