Drop a coin in the centre of the orchestra at Epidaurus and people sitting in the top row, fifty-odd rows above, will hear it. The theatre of the sanctuary of Asklepios, built in the fourth century BC, is famous for its acoustics and its almost perfect state of preservation, and it still hosts performances of ancient drama during the summer festival. But the theatre was only part of the sanctuary. Epidaurus was the most famous healing centre of the ancient Greek world, where the sick came to sleep in the sacred buildings and hope that the god Asklepios would visit them in a dream with a cure.
The site lies in a green valley of the Argolid, surrounded by pine-covered hills, near the village of Ligourio. The ruins of the sanctuary include temples, a stadium, a gymnasium and the mysterious Tholos, a circular building whose underground labyrinth may have housed sacred snakes. A museum displays inscriptions recording the miraculous cures. On the coast nearby, Palaia Epidavros has a smaller theatre by the sea, a harbour and a sunken town visible under the water.
The riding in the Argolid is a delight. The roads from Nafplio pass through orange groves and olive trees, and then climb into the hills with long sweeping bends and views across the Saronic Gulf. The coast road toward Palaia Epidavros and on to the Methana peninsula is twisty and beautiful, with small coves and blue water at every turn. Summer heat is intense, so ride early and late. Traffic is light, except on festival nights, when everyone heads for the theatre. Watch for gravel in the corners and goats in the road.
Ligourio has fuel, cafés and tavernas; Nafplio, about twenty-five kilometres away, is the main town of the area, a beautiful Venetian port with a fortress above. Greek food here means grilled meats, fresh fish, salads and the excellent local oranges. Visit the sanctuary early in the morning before the coaches arrive, and climb to the top row of the theatre. Sit quietly, and listen: the sound of someone talking in the orchestra comes up clear and close, as it did for audiences two and a half thousand years ago.