Sancerre is a hill town in the most literal sense: a cluster of stone houses wrapped around the top of a steep, isolated hill rising above the Loire, with vineyards falling away on every side. From the old Tour des Fiefs, the last remaining tower of the castle, the view stretches across the river valley to Pouilly on the other bank and far over the rolling vineyards. On a clear day, it is one of the most beautiful views in central France.
The name is known worldwide for wine. The crisp, mineral whites made from Sauvignon Blanc on the chalky and flinty soils of these slopes are among the most famous expressions of the grape, and there are also reds and rosés from Pinot Noir. The small village of Chavignol, just outside Sancerre, gives its name to the Crottin de Chavignol, a small, round goat's cheese that is the perfect match for the wine. A plate of crottin, a slice of bread and a glass of Sancerre on a terrace in the old town is a simple pleasure that is hard to beat, even if you limit yourself to a single small glass.
The town has a dramatic history. In 1573, during the Wars of Religion, the Protestant population of Sancerre was besieged by royal troops for several months, and the people were reduced to eating leather, parchment and worse before surrendering. Today, the narrow streets and squares of the old town are peaceful, full of wine shops, restaurants and cafés.
The roads around Sancerre are a joy to ride, winding through the vineyards, up and down the steep slopes, with constant views and changes of direction. They can be narrow and steep, with tight bends, and during the harvest in September, tractors and grape pickers are everywhere. Sancerre is small, so fuel options are limited; Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire, about eleven kilometres away, has more. Below the town, Saint-Satur sits on the river, with a large viaduct, now a footpath, and the Loire, wide and wild, with sandbanks and islands.