On the western shore of Lake Garda, between Manerba and Moniga, the little bay of San Sivino hides something very old under its shallows. People lived here in the Bronze Age in villages built on wooden piles at the water's edge, and the remains of their posts, tools and pottery survive in the mud of the lake. The site is one of the prehistoric pile dwellings around the Alps that UNESCO listed in 2011, a series of more than a hundred sites spread across six countries. There is nothing to see above the water, but knowing that the shore was settled thousands of years ago adds a quiet depth to an afternoon by the lake.
The area is the Valtènesi, a gently rolling stretch of hills between the lake and the moraine country to the west, covered in vineyards and olive groves. The local wine is the Chiaretto, a pale, fresh rosé that is perfect on a hot afternoon, and the olive oil from the Garda shores has its own protected designation. Above Manerba, the Rocca di Manerba, a limestone promontory crowned with the ruins of a castle, rises steeply above the lake, with a nature reserve, walking paths and a spectacular view over the water and the islands.
Riding around Lake Garda is a mixed experience. The lakeside roads are beautiful but often crowded, especially in summer, with heavy traffic, slow-moving cars, buses and cyclists. The smaller roads through the Valtènesi hills are more relaxed, winding between vineyards and villages, with views over the lake. Further north, the road along the western shore, the Gardesana Occidentale, runs through a series of tunnels and galleries cut into the cliffs, with dramatic views, though it can be very busy. Early mornings and evenings outside the peak season are the best times to ride.
Manerba del Garda, Moniga and Solarolo are small towns with shops, cafes and restaurants, and fuel is available along the main roads. Sirmione, at the southern end of the lake, is a famous resort on a narrow peninsula, with a moated castle and the remains of a large Roman villa, though it can be overwhelmed by visitors in summer. The beaches around San Sivino are good places for a swim, with clear water and views of the Rocca.