The hill of Naranco rises just north of Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, and on its slope, among oaks and chestnuts, stand two small stone buildings that are among the oldest and strangest churches in Europe. San Miguel de Lillo is the smaller and the more battered, and it lies a few minutes above Santa María del Naranco, three kilometres from the middle of the city, in a green landscape of meadows and apple orchards.
Both were built in the mid-ninth century for King Ramiro I, who ruled the little Christian kingdom of Asturias while most of Spain was under Muslim rule. Asturian builders developed their own style in these years, a pre-Romanesque art with barrel vaults, tall slim proportions and carved decoration of an unusual freshness. At San Miguel, only part of the church survives, because the western end collapsed centuries ago, but what remains is full of surprises. The stone lattice windows are each cut from a single slab, the doorway jambs carry sculpted scenes of circus performers and a Byzantine-looking emperor, and the vaults are supported on slender, ribbed arches. UNESCO inscribed both churches in 1985. Opening hours are limited and the entrance for small groups is controlled, so check ahead.
The way up from Oviedo is a short, steep climb on a winding road through the suburbs and then the woods. The surface is fine but narrow, with blind corners, and the car park is small, so arrive early or late in the day to avoid the coach tours. The hill gives a fine view across the city to the Cantabrian mountains, which are often capped with cloud and, in winter and spring, snow. Asturias is one of the wettest parts of Spain and the weather changes constantly, so a light waterproof is sensible. The best days are in late spring and early autumn, when the light is clear and the grass is green.
Oviedo is a lively and handsome city of over two hundred thousand people, with a cathedral, a university and a statue on almost every corner. Fuel and food are easy to find, and the old town is a short ride away. Order fabada, the bean and sausage stew, and sidra, the local cider, poured from a great height into a wide glass to give it a sparkle, though locals will be amused if you try it yourself. Cheese from the nearby valleys, especially the blue Cabrales, is very strong.