San Martino di Castrozza lies in a green basin in the Trentino Dolomites, at about 1,450 metres, with the Pale di San Martino rising behind it in a wall of pale, jagged rock. The Pale group is one of the most dramatic in the Dolomites, a high limestone plateau with towers and spires that glow pink at sunrise and sunset, the enrosadira that people travel far to see. The town grew up as a mountain resort in the nineteenth century, and today it is a base for walkers, climbers and skiers, with hotels, cafes and a small church dating from the earlier hospice that once stood here for pilgrims and travellers.
The town sits on the road between Primiero and the Rolle Pass. It is an old route, used for centuries to move cattle and timber, and the hospice was founded to give shelter to people crossing the high ground. Siror, Tonadico and Fiera di Primiero lie further down the valley, and these villages keep the older stone-and-wood look that tourist development has smoothed in San Martino itself. The nearest bigger towns with a full range of services are found in the valleys, though San Martino has fuel and supplies.
The riding here is a pleasure. Up toward Passo Rolle, at about 1,980 metres, the road climbs through spruce forest with long, well-surfaced curves and open meadows at the top, where the view back to the Pale is stunning. In the other direction, the road drops down through the Primiero valley with a series of bends that keep a rider busy. Traffic builds in July and August, especially at weekends, and bikers share the road with cyclists and campervans, so early starts are rewarded.
Rolle is generally open from late spring to autumn, although snow can close roads early in the season or late in the year, so check conditions. Mountain huts nearby serve polenta, cheese, speck and strudel, and the local dish canederli, bread dumplings in broth, is hearty after a cold ride. Stay in the evening if you can, because the mountains change colour as the sun goes down and the town falls quiet.