The Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca sits on the Colle della Guardia, a green hill above Bologna, and what makes it special is the way you reach it. A covered arcade, nearly four kilometres long and with some six hundred and sixty arches, climbs from the edge of the city to the church, built between 1674 and 1793 so pilgrims could carry an icon of the Virgin down into town and back in the rain. It is the longest portico in the world, and it forms part of the arcades of Bologna that UNESCO listed in 2021. The icon, which tradition says was painted by Luke the Evangelist, is taken in procession to the cathedral each May.
The church itself is an oval baroque building, with a dome that stands out on the skyline and a terrace that looks over the roofs of the city to the plain and, on clear days, the Alps. Cyclists come in great numbers, because this climb is a favourite of Italian racing, a short, steep hill used in the Giro dell'Emilia. The arcade starts at the Arco del Meloncello, an elegant arch at the point where the covered way crosses the road, and from there steps and ramps carry on up through the trees.
You can ride up by road, and the route from Casalecchio di Reno or from the city climbs in easy hairpins, with some bumpy surface and tight corners. It is a short run, but expect cyclists, and the road is narrow, so go gently. Traffic restrictions may apply on feast days and during processions. Beyond the hill, the Apennine foothills open up, and the Bolognese hills have lanes that wind among vineyards and villas, a great place to ride in spring and autumn.
Casalecchio di Reno, just under two and a half kilometres away, has about thirty-four thousand people, and Bologna beyond has everything. In the city, limited traffic zones are strict, so leave the bike outside the centre if you plan a day on foot. Bologna is the home of tortellini in broth, of tagliatelle with ragù and of mortadella, and a plate of any of them at a family trattoria makes the climb worthwhile. The porticoes shelter you from sun and rain, which is why they were built.