A stone causeway, a humpbacked bridge and 241 steps lead out to a small white hermitage on a rock in the Bay of Biscay, and the whole thing looks too tidy to be real. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a tiny island joined to the Basque mainland by a narrow bridge, topped by a chapel dedicated to John the Baptist, with a zigzag path climbing the rock in loops. Waves smash into the base, the sea is a deep green-blue, and the surrounding cliffs are covered in grass and heather. Gaztelugatxe means castle rock in Basque, and a fortress of some kind did once stand here, though the hermitage is the only thing left of it.
The tradition is to ring the bell at the top three times and make a wish. Pilgrims have been climbing here for centuries. The chapel has been burned and rebuilt more than once, once by raiders led by Francis Drake according to tradition, and the present building dates mostly from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Modern fame came differently: the island appeared in the television series Game of Thrones as Dragonstone, and visitor numbers rose so sharply that the authorities now regulate access. Booking a slot in advance has been required in recent seasons, so check before you ride out, and expect a fee for parking.
The road in is a pleasure. From Bermeo, the BI-3101 climbs along the cliff edge in a series of short, tight bends, with views down to the sea and across to the headlands of Cape Matxitxako to the west. The surface is good, the road is narrow, and in summer it can be crowded with cars looking for parking, so go early or in the shoulder season. There are a couple of car parks at the top, and the final walk to the causeway is about ten minutes downhill, with the climb back much longer. The wind off the sea is strong, and a sudden shower is always possible, so pack waterproofs.
Fuel is not available at the site. Bermeo, a working fishing port of nearly seventeen thousand people about six kilometres away, has stations, supermarkets and restaurants, and is a good place to end the day. The town's tradition is anchovies and bonito, served grilled, salted or on a pintxo in a bar. Nearby Bakio has a long surf beach and the local txakoli, a slightly fizzy, dry white wine that is poured from a height into a wide glass to bring out the bubbles.
Mist can swallow the island completely, so a day of clear light after rain is the one to choose.