San José is a small whitewashed settlement on the dry southeastern tip of Spain, tucked inside the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park. This is not the green Andalusia of the postcards. The landscape is volcanic, bare and honey-coloured, with agave and prickly pear, dry riverbeds and ragged coastal hills that fall into the sea in dark cliffs. It is one of the driest places in Europe, and the park is also a UNESCO biosphere reserve, which says something about its odd natural value.
The village itself grew from a fishing and farming hamlet into a low-key beach resort, and it has a pleasant harbour with small boats and a row of cafes. Nearby are some of the best-known beaches of the park, such as Los Genoveses and Monsul, which you reach by dirt track or a short walk. The film makers have loved this coast too, since the region around Almería has served as a stand-in for the American West and the Middle East for decades, and the nearby Tabernas desert has the old western sets to prove it.
On the bike, the road to San José is a pleasure of a different kind. Rather than pure twists, it is about open country, long views, sun and the sea appearing behind each rise. The roads in the park are narrow, sometimes uneven and occasionally dusty with sand blown from the dunes, so take a little care in corners. The wind can be strong, especially the levante from the east, and in summer the heat is intense, so spring and autumn are the best seasons. Winter is mild and often sunny, though rain can arrive suddenly and turn the sandy road edges slick.
San José is small, with around a thousand residents, so for a reliable choice of fuel and shops the nearest larger town is Níjar, about twenty-five kilometres away, and the coast towns along the way. Within the village you will find cafes, simple restaurants serving fresh fish and rice dishes, and places to sit and watch the harbour. Water is worth carrying if you plan to walk to the beaches, since there is very little shade on the coast. It is a quiet, sun-baked place, and a good one to slow down in.