San Cristóbal de las Casas sits at about 2,200 metres in a bowl of pine and oak forest in the Chiapas highlands, and the altitude shapes everything. The mornings are cold, the afternoons bright and the evenings smoky with wood fires, and the old streets, cobbled and low, are lined with houses painted in ochre and red. Diego de Mazariegos founded the town in 1528, and it was later renamed for Bartolomé de las Casas, the Dominican bishop who spoke up for the Indigenous population. On New Year's Day 1994 the Zapatista rebels briefly took over the town hall, and the uprising still shapes the politics of the region.
The ride up from the lowlands is the real attraction, with a long climb through forest and a succession of tight bends, and signs for villages whose names are in Tzotzil and Tzeltal. Be ready for the topes, the speed bumps that guard every settlement and can be vicious at the wrong speed. Fog and drizzle are common in the rainy season from May to October, and the road can be slick, so ride within what you can see. Dry season from November to April gives clearer skies, though nights are cold enough for a proper jacket.
Walk the centre, which is pedestrian-friendly, and visit the Santo Domingo church with its elaborate baroque front and the markets next to it, where Maya weavers sell textiles. Chiapas is also known for amber, which comes from local mines and is sold in small shops. A short ride away, the village of San Juan Chamula has a church where the rituals blend Catholic and older Maya traditions, and photography inside is strictly forbidden, so respect that. Zinacantán, nearby, is known for flowers and weaving.
The city has Pemex stations around the edges, plenty of cafes serving local coffee and a surprising number of good restaurants. Park the bike somewhere secure overnight, since the centre is dense with tourists and the streets are narrow. The altitude can make you a little breathless on the first day, so go gently, drink water and take your time.