A liana forest in Russia sounds like a joke, but the Samur Forest is real, and it is the only one of its kind in the country. On the lowland delta of the Samur River, at the southern edge of Dagestan, where the river meets the Caspian and the border with Azerbaijan runs close by, the ground is flat, damp and warm, and the trees are hung with wild grape vines, ivy and creepers that climb into the canopy and make a green tangle like something from the subtropics. The forest is a relic of an older, warmer age, a fragment of the Hyrcanian type of woodland that stretches along the southern Caspian, with oak, hornbeam, alder and ash, and a ground layer of ferns and wet leaves.
It is a protected national park, and the wildlife includes a surprising variety: jackals, wild boar, wildcats, and many birds, including pheasants and migrants on the Caspian flyway. The nearby beaches and dunes are also a nesting area. The sea here is shallow and warm, and the coast has a lazy, half-tropical feel.
Samur is also where the Lezgins live, a people who have their own language, a rich folk music tradition and a reputation for dancing. The Lezgin lands extend south into Azerbaijan, which explains why the border is such a sensitive subject, and the area is a border zone, so you should carry your passport, expect checkpoints, and avoid going near the frontier without permission. Local food includes lamb, kurze dumplings and fish from the Caspian, and the hospitality is generous.
The ride here, down the Caspian coast from Derbent, is flat, hot and straight, with farmland, orchards and small towns on either side, and a heavy flow of lorries heading to the border. The surface is generally fair, with patches and some rough stretches, and speed cameras are common. In summer, temperatures can climb above thirty-five degrees, with humid air, and mosquitoes are bad near the forest. The best time is probably May, June, September and early October. In winter, rain and fog make the roads unpleasant.
Fuel is available in Belidzhi, about thirteen kilometres away, and in Derbent, and in the villages along the main road. Cafés and shops are simple, and a plate of grilled fish and a pot of tea are easy to find. Accommodation in the area is limited, and Derbent is a better base. Walk a little way into the trees, if the park allows, and notice the smell of damp earth and leaves. It is a strange, soft place for the Caucasus.