Salerno is the working city at the eastern end of the Amalfi Coast, and it rarely gets the attention of its prettier neighbours. A busy port with about 125,000 people, it sits on the curve of the Gulf of Salerno, backed by steep hills, and it has an old town of narrow lanes, a long seafront promenade and a distinct, unpretentious character. After the beautiful frenzy of the coast road, many riders find it a relief to be in a place where people just live.
The city's history is richer than it looks. In the Middle Ages, Salerno was home to the Schola Medica Salernitana, one of the first and most famous medical schools in Europe, where scholars studied Greek and Arabic texts and women also practised as physicians. The cathedral, dedicated to St Matthew, was begun in the late eleventh century under the Norman ruler Robert Guiscard and houses the apostle's relics, with a beautiful atrium and bronze doors. In September 1943, Allied troops landed on the beaches nearby, and the fighting around Salerno was among the hardest of the Italian campaign.
The riding in the area is a contrast. To the west, the Amalfi Drive winds along the cliff above the sea, narrow and busy and memorable. To the north and east, the roads cross a broad plain of farms and factories, with fast, straight stretches that are fine for covering distance. In the city itself, traffic is dense, with scooters, buses and impatient drivers, and a quiet focus helps. The seafront, with its palm trees and gardens, is lovely in the early evening, and in winter the old streets are lit with elaborate artistic light displays.
As a stop, Salerno is easy. It has fuel, repair shops, hotels, banks and supermarkets, and the food is excellent and cheaper than on the coast. Buffalo mozzarella from the nearby plain is a local pride, along with fresh seafood, pasta and pastries. Ferries leave from the port for Amalfi and other coastal towns in season, and the central railway station is a good reference point. Park the bike in a secured garage if you can, and take an evening walk along the waterfront.