Salacgrīva sits where the Salaca river meets the Gulf of Riga, close to the Estonian border, and it has lived on fish for as long as anyone can remember. The river is known for its lampreys, eel-like fish that run upriver in autumn and are caught in traditional weirs, and the local people hold a lamprey festival and serve them grilled or smoked, an acquired taste that locals love. The harbour is full of boats, and the smell of smoke from the fish houses hangs over the town. Salmon, herring and sprats are also on the menu, and a plate of smoked fish with rye bread is the town's best advertisement.
The Salaca is one of the best known rivers of Vidzeme, and in its upper valley are sandstone cliffs and old mill sites. At the mouth, the river meets the sea in a flat landscape of reeds and sand, and a long, clean beach runs along the coast, with dunes and pine woods behind it. The area was once part of Livonia, and the old Livonian fishing culture left its mark on the place names and traditions. Some of the old fishing practices, including the use of stone-and-wood weirs, are still demonstrated, and the town has a small museum that tells the story.
The riding along the coast is gentle and peaceful, with flat roads through forest and farmland, and long straight sections with the sea glimpsed through the trees. The Via Baltica, the main highway, passes through the town, and carries traffic to and from Estonia, so it can be busy with lorries, but side roads are quiet. The surface is generally good, and the bends are easy. Be wary of elk at dawn and dusk, and of sand blown across the road near the dunes. Summer is the season for riding, with light evenings and warm weather, and autumn brings golden forests and misty mornings.
Salacgrīva has fuel stations, supermarkets and cafes, and there are guesthouses and a campsite. The nearest larger town is Limbaži, about thirty-four kilometres away, which has more services, and Ainaži, about twelve kilometres to the north, is a small town on the border known for its historic maritime school. Cash and cards are both widely accepted, and prices are reasonable.
The best time to come is late summer, when the sea is at its warmest and the fish are fresh. A walk along the beach in the evening is a good way to end the day.