The Sakhyurta ferry is the narrow gate to Olkhon, the largest island in Lake Baikal and the spiritual heart of the lake for the Buryat people. The crossing is a short hop over the strait called Olkhon Gate, and the landing on the far side puts you on a long, dry, wind-swept island of steppe, pine and pale cliffs. Khuzhir, the island's main village, is about thirty-six kilometres beyond the ferry, and Yelantsy, the nearest bigger settlement on the mainland, is about forty kilometres behind.
The road in matters as much as the water. From Irkutsk, the way follows the Baikal highway north, then turns toward the lake across rolling steppe, with good tarmac for much of the distance and a final stretch of gravel or dirt that can be rough, dusty or muddy depending on the season. The ferry itself runs from spring until the lake freezes, with queues at weekends and holidays, so go early or at midweek. In winter the lake becomes an ice road, which is another adventure entirely. Fuel is not sold at the landing, so fill up in Irkutsk or along the way, and remember that fuel on the island is limited and queues are common.
Olkhon matters to the Buryat as a sacred place. The nearby Shamanka Rock, a pale cliff at the edge of Khuzhir, is one of the best-known shamanic sites in Asia, and rituals are still performed there. The island also carries the cult of Burkhan, the local spirit of the lake, and its cape is among the most revered places on Baikal. Colourful ribbons tied to posts and trees, called serge, mark sacred spots, and visitors are asked to respect them.
The landscape is wonderfully austere. The wind off Baikal carries the smell of cold water and dry grass, the colour of the lake changes from steel to deep blue, and the cliffs on the western shore glow orange at sunset. The island has a dry climate, so you ride through steppe and sparse pine, with views across the water to the mountains of the western shore. Seals live in the lake, though you are unlikely to see one from the road.
Practical advice: arrive early at the ferry, bring water and snacks, and expect dust. The unpaved roads on the island are slow, so adventure bikes are ideal. Weather can swing from sunny to cold and windy in an hour, so pack accordingly.