The Western Tien Shan comes down to meet the steppe here, in the far south of Kazakhstan, and the Sairam-Ugam National Park protects a big piece of that collision. Snowy ridges rise above deep valleys with rushing rivers, forests of juniper, birch and wild fruit trees, and high meadows full of flowers in early summer. The park is part of the Western Tien Shan World Heritage Site, shared with Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan and listed in 2016, a region known as one of the places where many fruit trees, including wild apples, walnuts and apricots, have their origins. The wildlife includes snow leopards, ibex, bears and the endemic Menzbier's marmot.
In spring, the slopes bloom with tulips, including the large red Greig's tulip, a wild ancestor of many garden varieties, and the meadows are a riot of colour. Shepherds bring their flocks up to the high pastures in summer, living in yurts and selling kumis, fermented mare's milk, to passing visitors. The neighbouring Aksu-Zhabagly reserve, founded in 1926, is the oldest nature reserve in Central Asia.
Riding into the park means leaving the main roads behind. The asphalt roads from Shymkent and Lenger lead to the foothills, but beyond them, the routes into the valleys are mostly gravel or dirt, with river crossings, steep climbs and rough sections. A dual sport or adventure bike is the right tool, along with good tyres, spare parts and the skills to deal with whatever the mountains throw at you. Permits are needed to enter the national park, and some areas near the borders are restricted, so check the rules in advance and register with the park authorities.
Lenger, about thirty kilometres away, is a small town with fuel and shops, and Shymkent, one of the largest cities in Kazakhstan, has everything you could need. Fuel is cheap, but stations are spaced far apart in rural areas, so carry extra. The weather in the mountains can be unpredictable, with hot days, cold nights and sudden storms, and snow can block the high valleys from autumn to spring. The best time to visit is from May to September, and the food in the villages is simple and filling: plov, shashlik, laghman noodles and bread straight from the tandoor oven.