In the far south of Kazakhstan, east of the city of Shymkent, the Western Tien Shan mountains rise abruptly from the steppe in a wall of snow-capped peaks, deep gorges and forests of juniper, walnut and wild fruit trees. The Sairam-Ugam National Park protects a large part of these mountains, and it is one of the components of the Western Tien Shan World Heritage site, listed by UNESCO in 2016 together with areas in Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.
The mountains are a biodiversity hotspot, home to many species of plants found nowhere else, including wild tulips, the ancestors of many garden varieties, which bloom in spring across the slopes. Wild apples, apricots and walnuts grow in the forests, and the park is home to snow leopards, ibex, bears and golden eagles. The valleys are watered by rivers fed by melting snow, and in spring and early summer, the meadows are a riot of colour. Traditional herding still takes place in the mountains, with yurts and livestock dotting the high pastures in summer.
Riding in this area means a mix of good roads and rough tracks. The main road from Shymkent to Taraz and on to Almaty is generally in decent condition, with long straight stretches across the steppe, while roads into the mountains, towards the villages of Tyulkubas and Kokterek and the park entrance, can be narrow, steep and unpaved. Traffic is light in the mountains, but livestock and potholes are common. Weather can change quickly, with snow possible at higher elevations in spring and autumn, and summer heat on the plains.
Tyulkubas, a town of around ten thousand, has fuel, shops and basic services, while Shymkent, a city of over a million people, has everything you need. Pumps are not hard to find, though it is worth choosing the busier, branded ones. Kazakh cuisine is meat-heavy: try beshbarmak, boiled meat with noodles, and shashlik, grilled meat on skewers, as well as kumis, fermented mare's milk, if you are adventurous. Permits may be required for some parts of the park, so check in advance.