Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines sits in a narrow valley on the Alsace side of the Vosges, with steep wooded slopes rising on both flanks and a small river running through the middle. The name gives away its story. This was silver country, and from the Middle Ages until the sixteenth century miners dug galleries into the hills here, making the valley, the Val d'Argent, one of the richest in the region. Later, textiles took over, and tall old mill buildings still line the town's main street. Visitors can still go underground in an old mine to see the tunnels.
Every September the town fills with colour for a big European patchwork festival, which draws quilters from many countries, and the shops and halls fill with fabric. The rest of the year it is quieter, a small town of around six thousand people with good bakeries, a market and bars where the Alsatian dialect is still heard. Look for a slice of kugelhopf, the local yeasted cake, or a plate of tarte flambée with a glass of Riesling.
This is the start of a classic mountain ride. The Route des Crêtes, the Crest Road, was built by the French army during the First World War to move troops and supplies along the Vosges front, and it now runs along the high ridges for about eighty kilometres, with views across the Alsace plain to the Rhine and, on a clear day, the Black Forest and the Alps. It climbs by way of the Col des Bagenelles and then rolls along the tops, past lakes and high farms where munster cheese is made. Corners are wide and easy, and the surface is generally good, though the road is busy on summer weekends, so aim for a weekday or an early start. Sections close in winter because of snow, usually from late autumn until spring, so check before you go.
Fuel is available in town, and it is wise to fill up here because the ridge itself has none. Bring a warm layer even in July, since the summits can be cool and windy, and fog can come down fast. Start in the clear morning and you will have the best of the views.