Sarein, spelled Sa'in or Saeen on various maps, is a hot-spring town in the Ardabil province of north-western Iran, set on the lower slopes of Mount Sabalan. Sabalan is a huge extinct volcano rising to about 4,800 metres, with a crater lake near the summit and snow that lingers into summer. The spring water here is naturally hot, rich in minerals, and has been used for bathing for centuries, with Iranian families coming from all over the country to bathe and picnic in the green meadows.
The region has a cooler, greener character than the deserts further south. Ardabil, about thirty kilometres east, is an old city on the plateau, famous as the home of the Safavid dynasty, which made Shia Islam the state religion of Iran in the sixteenth century. The shrine of Sheikh Safi al-Din, the founder of the Sufi order from which the dynasty grew, is a World Heritage site, a graceful ensemble of blue tilework, domes and gardens, with a collection of Chinese porcelain once kept there. The Ardabil carpets, among the greatest ever woven, take their name from the city.
The roads climb through rolling plateau and mountain scenery. The road from Ardabil to Sarein winds upward through meadows and low hills, with views of the great cone of Sabalan in good weather, and the air is noticeably cool. The surface is good on the main road, and curves become more frequent as the slope steepens. In winter snow and ice can close the higher roads, and fog is common in the valleys. Summer is the best season, when nomadic herders bring their flocks to the high pastures and the wildflowers bloom.
Fuel is available in Sarein and Ardabil, but the nearest listed village is some distance away, so fill up before heading into the mountains. The local specialities include honey, yogurt and a thick soup called ash, and you can often find a tea house with a view. Bring warm clothes even in July, because evenings are cold, and allow time for a long bath in the springs.