Ruisui lies in the East Rift Valley, the long, narrow trench of farmland that runs down the east side of Taiwan between two parallel mountain ranges. The Central Range stands on one side, high and dark with forest, and the lower Coastal Range on the other, and the valley floor between them is a patchwork of rice paddies, pineapple fields and fruit orchards. It is quieter and slower than the busy west coast, and Ruisui is a small township where the pace suits the scenery.
The valley exists because two tectonic plates are colliding, and Ruisui sits on that seam. The Tropic of Cancer passes through the area, and a marker beside the road shows the line where the sun stands directly overhead at the summer solstice, a small monument that people photograph with enthusiasm. The ground here also produces hot springs, which are unusual because the water is rusty brown and rich in iron, and bathing houses in the township offer soaks in the warm, mineral water. The nearby Xiuguluan River, which cuts through the Coastal Range to the sea, is the island's best-known rafting river, and in warm months you will see inflatable rafts bobbing through the rapids.
The road down the valley, Provincial Highway 9, is a gentle, rolling ride with long views of the mountains on both sides. It is mostly well surfaced, with light traffic compared with the western plain, and the bends are easy, so it is a relaxed day's ride. Watch for farm vehicles, scooters and sudden rain showers, and take care at the many intersections. Spring and autumn are the best times; summer is hot and humid, with afternoon thunderstorms and the possibility of typhoons from July to October.
The valley is also known for food. Ruisui has a name for its dairy products, including milk and ice cream, and the bakeries and cafés in town are good places for a break. Local specialties include fresh pineapple, passionfruit and rice dishes, and you can find simple restaurants serving noodles and braised pork. Petrol stations are easy to find in the township, and it is a sensible place to fill the tank before heading further south.
Pause for a while at one of the roadside stands, buy a cold drink and look up at the mountains. The valley rewards slow travel.