Rothenburg ob der Tauber looks like a film set because, for a long time, it had no choice. The medieval town stands on a ridge above the Tauber valley in Franconia, enclosed by an almost complete ring of walls with towers and gates, and its timber houses, steep roofs and cobbled lanes have survived because the town lost its wealth after the Thirty Years War and could not afford to rebuild. It was too poor to modernise, and so it stayed old. Today it draws visitors in large numbers, and the main streets can be packed with tour groups by mid-morning.
There are stories attached. One of the best known, the Meistertrunk, tells how the town was spared in 1631 when the mayor accepted a challenge from the enemy general to drain a large tankard of wine in one go, and did it. A play about the event is staged each year. In the church of St. James there is a carved altar of the Holy Blood by the sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider, a masterpiece of late Gothic woodcarving. In March 1945 an air raid destroyed about forty percent of the old town, and it was rebuilt with the help of donations from around the world, which explains the many plaques on the walls.
For riders, Rothenburg is a starting point on the Castle Road, which crosses Franconia toward Bamberg by way of small towns, castles and wooded hills. The roads are quiet and smooth, running through farmland and orchards, with gentle curves and views over open country. Surfaces are good, and the biggest hazards are agricultural vehicles and the odd tour coach. Spring blossom and autumn colour are lovely, and summer weekends are busy.
For fuel and food, the town has what you need, but the old centre is largely closed to cars, so park outside and walk in. A walk along the top of the town wall, which is free, gives the best views over the roofs. Sweet Schneeball pastries are sold in every bakery, and the Franconian wine from the surrounding valleys is worth trying. Evenings, after the tourists have gone, are the time when the lanes feel like they did centuries ago.