Würzburg sits on the Main in lower Franconia, and the Rosenbach label puts you on its northern edge of green space, a few minutes from the old centre rather than out in open country. Take it as what it is, a pleasant city stop among the trams and one-way streets, and the real interest lies in the town around it.
The river is the reason for everything here. The Main loops through a narrow valley whose south-facing slopes are covered in vines, and Würzburg has made wine on them for well over a thousand years. The local drink is Silvaner, dry and slightly earthy, and it comes in the flat green bottle called a Bocksbeutel, which you will see in every shop window. The hill above the old bridge carries the Marienberg fortress, for centuries the seat of the prince-bishops, who also built the Residenz in the town below. That palace, with its Tiepolo ceiling fresco over the staircase, is the grandest baroque building in Bavaria's north and it was rebuilt with some stubbornness after the bombing of March 1945 flattened most of the city in a single night.
For a rider, the city itself is slow going. Trams, one-way streets and plenty of cyclists mean you walk the centre rather than ride it, and the best plan is to park somewhere sensible, cross the old bridge on foot with a glass of wine from the vendors who set up there in the evenings, and look up at the fortress. Fuel is no issue, since Würzburg is a city of well over a hundred thousand and Höchberg and Gerbrunn on either side have their own stations. Coffee and a proper meal are easy to find; the town has a long habit of feeding students and tourists at the same time.
The roads beyond are the reward. West along the Main towards Karlstadt and Marktheidenfeld the valley road is gentle and the vineyards crowd in; to the south the Romantic Road begins here and rolls towards Tauberbischofsheim and Rothenburg, gentle farmland with the occasional long straight. Go on a weekday morning in September or early October when the grapes are in and the light comes low and gold across the slopes. Summer weekends bring tour buses and slow convoys, and in winter the hills hold fog for days.