Roseburg is the main town of the Umpqua valley in southern Oregon, with around twenty-two thousand people, an old timber economy and a position right where Interstate 5 crosses the South Umpqua River. For many years the city was proud to call itself the Timber Capital of the Nation, and mills, logging trucks and sawdust were everyday companions. The industry has shrunk, but the town still carries a rugged working feel, with a pleasant old downtown, murals, and several breweries.
In 1959 a truck loaded with explosives caught fire and detonated in the centre of town, flattening buildings and killing several people, an event still talked about locally. The area also has wine, with small vineyards on the sunny hills around the valley producing pinot noir and some unusual varieties. Further out, the nearby wildlife park lets you drive past lions, bears and other animals.
For riders, Roseburg is the doorway to the Umpqua country. Highway 138, the North Umpqua Highway, heads east up the river toward Crater Lake, following a river famous for fly fishing and steelhead. The road is gently winding at first, through green forested canyons, and then steepens, with long curves, fast sweeping sections and occasional tight corners. Along the way a string of waterfalls, including the impressive Toketee and Watson falls, make good short walks from the road.
The Cascade Range rises above, and Crater Lake itself, the deep blue lake formed in the crater of a collapsed volcano, sits at the end of the route. It is one of the deepest lakes in the United States, famously clear and strikingly blue. The high road to the rim is usually blocked by snow for much of the year, normally from late autumn into early summer, so check the park's seasonal information before setting off.
Roseburg has fuel at every corner, supermarkets and plenty of ordinary American diners. After the town there are long stretches with little, so top up before leaving. The best months are late June to September, though summer afternoons can be hot in the valley and wildfire smoke sometimes drifts through late in the season. Mornings are cool and clear.