Roosevelt Lake is Arizona's biggest reservoir and a startling sight in the middle of a desert. It was created by the Theodore Roosevelt Dam on the Salt River, completed in 1911 as one of the first great projects of the federal reclamation programme, and for decades it was the largest masonry dam in the world. The water it holds feeds the Phoenix valley, turning what was desert into farmland and suburbs, and the lake lies among the rocky slopes of the Tonto Basin like a long blue scar.
The setting is stark and beautiful. Saguaro cactus stand on the hillsides, and the water shifts between turquoise and deep blue depending on the depth and the sky. A graceful steel arch bridge, opened in 1990, carries State Route 188 across the lake near the dam, and it is a good place to stop for a look. In winter, bald eagles gather along the shores to fish, and the lake is a popular spot for birdwatchers and anglers. In the cliffs above the water, the Tonto National Monument preserves the stone dwellings of the Salado people, built about seven hundred years ago, and the trail up to them gives a view across the whole basin.
For a swim, the lake offers beaches and coves along its edge, and the water is warm for much of the year. Levels vary, so shorelines move, and the bottom can be muddy or rocky. In summer, heat is a serious matter. By noon the temperature can climb above forty degrees, and shade is scarce, so drink plenty of water and put on sunscreen before you step into the lake. Evening is the best time, when the light softens and the rocks turn gold.
The riding around the lake is relaxed, with long curves, good road surfaces and broad views. Traffic is light except on weekends in cooler months, when boaters and campers fill the area. Watch for wildlife on the road, including deer and javelinas at dusk.
Services are limited. Tonto Basin, about twenty-three kilometres away, has small shops and basic supplies, and Globe, to the east, is the nearest place with a full range of services. There are marinas and campgrounds with small stores, but hours vary, so bring water and snacks, and fill the tank before you leave the main roads.
When you reach the shore, take a moment to look at the dam wall and the old stonework. It is a piece of history that still does its job.