Hentesu is the name of a hill near the village of Romanasi, in the Salaj hills of north-western Romania, and Dealul Hentesu is simply Hentesu Hill. It is a modest rise, but in this country of broad rounded ridges it commands good views.
Romanasi is a village in the Meses foothills, and it lies close to the Roman frontier. Archaeologists have traced a line of Roman watchtowers and small forts running along the ridges of the Meses range, the so-called limes of Dacia, and some are in good condition. A turf and timber rampart, with a ditch, once ran in front of them. Traces of the road that supplied the garrisons survive in the fields.
The hill's slopes are covered with a mixture of meadow and woodland, and farmers still cut hay with scythes in the clearings. Cherry and plum trees grow wild by the paths, and in late summer you may find blackberries and wild raspberries. Birds of prey, such as buzzards and kestrels, hover over the open ground, and hares leap through the grass. The soil is a rich brown, and after rain the smell of damp earth is strong.
For motorcyclists, the roads here suit an unhurried day. The ridge routes are narrow and not always well surfaced, but the traffic is minimal, and the sense of space is wonderful. Take care at crossings with farm tracks, where gravel can wash onto the tarmac. Treznea and Agrij, small villages within a few kilometres, have limited shops, and Zalau is the place to fill the tank and have a proper meal. Take cash, since small village shops often do not accept cards.
Late spring and early autumn are the best times. In the heat of high summer, midday is quiet, and the hay smells sweet.