Rogna is a scatter of farms in the hills of northern Sălaj, close to the Someș valley and the border with Maramureș, and La Bontauă is the name the locals give to a piece of high ground where a Roman frontier site has been recorded. The northern edge of Roman Dacia ran through these hills, and the Romans placed watchtowers and small forts on high points to keep an eye on the river valleys and the free Dacians to the north. Today there is little to see apart from the shape of the land, but the view over the rolling hills makes it easy to imagine a sentry looking out across the valley.
The countryside around Ileanda and Rus is quiet and unspoiled, with hay meadows, orchards and patches of oak and beech forest. Villages are small, with wooden houses and churches, and traditional life is still visible, with horse carts on the roads, haystacks in the fields and geese in the yards. In spring, the meadows are full of wildflowers, and in autumn, the forests turn gold and red.
The roads here are narrow, winding and often in poor condition, with potholes, gravel and the occasional stretch of dirt. Take it slowly, especially on the climbs and descents, and watch out for animals and farm vehicles. The main road along the Someș, between Dej and Jibou, is better, with gentle curves along the river and views of the wooded valley.
Services are limited. Ileanda, five kilometres away, has a shop and perhaps a bar, but for fuel, head to larger towns such as Dej, Jibou or Copalnic Mănăștur. Carry water and snacks, and be prepared for basic conditions. To the north, Maramureș offers wooden churches, the Merry Cemetery at Săpânța and some of the most traditional rural culture in Europe, while Zalău and the Roman city of Porolissum lie to the south-west.