In 1903, a young man from Calaceite named Juan Cabré, who would go on to become one of Spain's pioneering archaeologists, found painted figures of deer and other animals in a rock shelter in the Calapatá ravine, between Calaceite and Cretas. The Roca dels Moros became one of the first sites of Levantine rock art identified in Spain, and it helped open up a whole new field of study. Today it is part of the UNESCO listing of rock art of the Mediterranean Basin, and a visit here is a small pilgrimage to the beginnings of that story.
Calaceite itself is a handsome village of honey-coloured stone, with a large baroque church, an arcaded town hall and narrow streets lined with mansions, many restored by artists and writers who have settled here. On a hill outside the village lie the ruins of San Antonio, an Iberian settlement from the centuries before the Romans, with walls and house foundations visible on the summit. The surrounding Matarraña countryside is a patchwork of olive and almond groves, vineyards and pine woods, cut by ravines and dotted with farmhouses, the masías.
The riding here is relaxing and scenic. Roads are generally in good condition, with little traffic and a mix of gentle curves and sharper bends through the hills. The N-420 passes nearby, linking Alcañiz with Gandesa and the Terra Alta wine region in Catalonia, a fine road in its own right, and smaller routes lead through Cretas, Valderrobres and the villages towards the Ports de Beseit. The Ebro valley to the east, with its Civil War battlefields around Gandesa, adds a layer of more recent history.
Calaceite has a few bars and restaurants, and fuel is available in larger nearby towns such as Valderrobres or Alcañiz, though it is wise to check opening hours. The region produces excellent olive oil, and Terra Alta wines are well worth trying. Look for local dishes such as roast kid, potatoes with garlic and olive oil, and almond biscuits. Walking to the shelter involves a short hike, so bring water and sun protection, especially in summer.