There is a bend in the road above the Geirangerfjord where the whole country seems to drop away in front of you. Ørnesvingen, the Eagle Bend, is a hairpin on the road from Eidsdal, and the viewpoint at its edge, at about six hundred and twenty metres, looks straight down onto the fjord, a long, narrow slot of green water between cliffs with waterfalls pouring from the rim. Ships look like toys at the village of Geiranger below, and the air smells of cold stone and wet moss.
The Geirangerfjord is part of the West Norwegian Fjords, a UNESCO World Heritage area, and it is one of the most visited places in Norway. The cliffs are nearly vertical, and several of the waterfalls have names, such as the Seven Sisters and the Suitor, which face each other across the water. Abandoned farms cling to ledges high on the slopes, reached in the old days by ladders and ropes, and the stories of the people who lived there are a reminder of how hard life was. In summer, cruise ships crowd the fjord, and in the shoulder seasons it is much quieter.
The road down is the Eagle Road, Rv63, with a series of hairpins that drop steeply toward the fjord. It is a wonderful ride, with a good surface, well-marked corners and views at nearly every bend, though in high season it is full of campervans and coaches, so patience is needed. The higher stretches of the road close in winter and reopen in spring, usually by May, and the toll road up to Dalsnibba, at about fifteen hundred metres, gives one of the greatest views in the country.
Fuel is not available at the viewpoint. Stranda, about twenty-five kilometres away, has stations and shops, and there are also places in Geiranger, though prices are high. Cafés at the viewpoint serve coffee and waffles. Take care on the hairpins, particularly in wet weather, when the road can be slick, and watch for oncoming buses that take the corners wide. Early morning, before the tour groups arrive, is the best time, and the light on the fjord is soft.