Rivaz is a small village in the middle of Lavaux, and it is easy to ride past without noticing, which would be a mistake. The houses are old and the lanes are narrow, running down toward the lake between walls of dry stone and rows of vines. A railway line cuts through the village, with a station that serves the little trains that run along the shore, and the whole place feels as if it had been left alone by the modern world.
The village is part of the terraced wine country that UNESCO recognised in 2007, and its position is perfect, with a south-facing slope, sheltering ridge and a clear view over the lake to the mountains of Savoy. A short distance away lies the vineyard of Dézaley, one of the most famous in Switzerland, where the terraces are steepest and the wine is rich and mineral. The wine centre in Rivaz, a modern building that explains the work of the vineyards and offers tastings, makes a good place to learn about the wine of the region before you buy a bottle. Opening hours vary with the season, so check them in advance.
Rivaz is best explored on foot. Footpaths drop through the vines from the ridge to the lake, passing under the railway and between the walls, and signs outside the cellars announce when a grower has opened for tasting. The vineyards are worked by hand because machines cannot manage the slopes, and many growers sell directly from their cellars, so a bottle bought here usually has a story attached, and often is not for sale in any shop.
The riding around Rivaz is among the best short rides in Switzerland. The road above the village, the Corniche, winds through the vines with tight bends and narrow sections, with stone walls on either side. Take it slowly, and give way to cyclists and walkers, who use the lanes in large numbers. The main lake road below is faster, but less attractive. Afternoons in late summer can be hot, with sun reflected from the walls, and a cool drink is welcome.
The village has a handful of cafes and wine bars, and a little shop, but you will not find a fuel station here. Chexbres, about a kilometre away on the ridge, has more services, and Vevey, about five kilometres to the east, is the nearest large town, with plenty of fuel and supermarkets. Plan to visit in the spring or autumn, when the vines are green or golden and the crowds are thinner.