Riquewihr was once the property of a distant German dynasty, and some say that explains why the town looks so well preserved. It belonged to the counts, later dukes, of Württemberg from the fourteenth century until the French Revolution, and during all that time it grew rich on wine and trade, building tall half-timbered houses with carved doorways, oriel windows and courtyards. The Thirty Years War and later conflicts largely passed it by, and the old walled core survived largely as it was built, which is why people now come in their thousands to walk its main street, the Rue du Général de Gaulle, under hanging signs and baskets of flowers.
The Dolder, a tall gate tower from the thirteenth century, stands in the middle of the town and looks down the main street, and the high walls and smaller gates still enclose the old part of the village. Inside, wine merchants' cellars open directly to the street, with barrels and bottles on display, and the signs of the wine houses, such as Hugel, one of the great family names of Alsace, are everywhere. A walk through the courtyards and down the side alleys, away from the main street, reveals quieter corners with storks' nests on the rooftops, a symbol of Alsace.
The wines are the point. Riquewihr is surrounded by vineyards on the slopes of the Vosges foothills, and its best-known sites, such as the Schoenenbourg grand cru, produce excellent Riesling, a dry, mineral white wine, and Gewurztraminer, a richly aromatic one. Late harvest wines, such as vendange tardive, are sweeter and made from grapes left on the vine. If you are tasting, do it sensibly, with a small sip and a spittoon, and save any serious drinking for the evening.
The riding on the Route des Vins around Riquewihr is gentle and pleasant, with the village roads, vineyard tracks and small lanes weaving between the villages of Ribeauvillé, Hunawihr and Bergheim. It is not a road for speed, as the lanes are narrow and the speed limits are low, and in high season the town is packed, so a weekday visit in spring or autumn is much better. Park outside the walls and walk in. The Christmas market in December is famous and very crowded.
Fuel and supermarkets are best found in Colmar, about twelve kilometres south, or in Wintzenheim and Ribeauvillé. In the village itself, cafés, bakeries and restaurants serve Alsace specialities, and the wine shops are everywhere.