Ripoll is where Catalonia, in a sense, began. In 879 Guifré el Pelós, Wilfred the Hairy, the count credited with founding the Catalan dynasty, established the monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll, and he is buried there. The carved Romanesque doorway, with its crowded scenes from the Bible and the lives of kings, is among the finest in Spain. Even if you only have time for a coffee, walk over and look at it.
The town lies in a valley where the Ter and Freser rivers meet, ringed by the foothills of the Pyrenees, with about eleven thousand people. It was once known for its forges and, later, for making firearms and ironwork, and a few old factories still stand along the rivers. Today it is a pleasant place with a market, arcaded streets and a good selection of bakeries, bars and small shops.
For a rider, Ripoll is an important gateway. The road north, the N-152, climbs steadily through the valley of the Freser toward the Collada de Toses and on to Puigcerdà, while the road east leads to Olot and the volcanic country of La Garrotxa. Fuel is easy, with stations at the edge of town, and it makes sense to fill up here before the mountains. The temperature drops as you climb, so a spare layer is worth carrying.
There is more to eat here than most travellers expect. Catalan mountain cooking runs to stews, grilled sausages, wild mushrooms in autumn and trinxat, a fried mixture of potatoes and cabbage. Cheese from nearby farms is excellent, and the local bakeries sell a variety of pastries. Lunch with a view of the square, under an arcade, is a good way to spend an hour.
In winter, snow can reach the town, and the roads above can be icy. In summer, the valley is warm and the evenings pleasant. Ripoll is a quiet place, but it carries a great weight of history, and you can sense it in the stone.