At roughly 2,750 metres above sea level, Riobamba is a high-altitude city that wears its height lightly. It sits in a wide basin in the central Andes of Ecuador, surrounded by volcanoes, and on clear mornings Chimborazo, the tallest mountain in the country at about 6,263 metres, stands in the distance with its snowy summit catching the first light. Because the Earth bulges at the equator, Chimborazo's summit is the farthest point on the planet's surface from its centre, which makes it a tempting claim for the title of the world's highest mountain.
The city has a calm grandeur. Its streets are wide and laid out on a grid, the result of a rebuild after the earthquake of 1797 destroyed the original town. Ecuador's first constitution was drawn up here in 1830, so Riobamba likes to call itself the cradle of the nation. Markets fill the town on Saturdays, with farmers and weavers from the villages bringing produce, wool and animals in from the highlands, and the colours of the Indigenous skirts and hats are a pleasure to see.
Riding in the Ecuadorian Andes is a lesson in altitude. The road north to Ambato and Quito runs along the Avenue of the Volcanoes, and the road west towards Chimborazo climbs quickly above the treeline into a barren high plateau called the paramo, where vicunas graze and the wind is cold. The air is thin, so engines lose power and riders can feel headaches or breathlessness, so go easy on the climbs and drink plenty of water. Tarmac is generally good on main roads, but cattle and dogs can wander out, and fog and rain arrive without warning.
Riobamba is large enough to have everything you need, with fuel, workshops, hotels and restaurants all easy to find. Try hornado, roast pork served with potatoes, and the local ice cream made from fruit juice and ice, known as helado de paila. Early mornings give the clearest mountain views, so plan to be out before the clouds settle.