Rinteln is a small Weser town of about twenty-eight thousand people, set where the river swings in a series of wide bends between the hills of the Weserbergland. The old town is full of half-timbered houses and handsome buildings in the Weser Renaissance style, a distinctive form of gables, bay windows and decorated stonework that spread along the river in the late sixteenth and early seventeenth centuries.
The Weser here is slow and wide, flowing past wooded hills on either side, and the landscape is soft and green, with orchards and small villages tucked into the valleys. Luhden, four kilometres away, sits in the hills, and the road up to it climbs in a series of gentle bends. The Weserbergland is not high, but it is lively, with hills, forests and ridgeline roads that offer long views over the valley. The traffic is light, apart from the weekend crowds, and the road surface is generally good.
Hameln, twenty-five kilometres upstream, is the town of the Pied Piper, the legendary rat-catcher who, when the town refused to pay him, led its children away. The story, which the Brothers Grimm included in their collection, is said to relate to a real event in 1284. Hameln has a pleasant old centre with a daily show on the town clock and rats on every souvenir. Rinteln makes a quieter alternative for a rest, with fewer coach parties.
The river is the thread, and a ride along its banks is a gentle way to pass an afternoon. Ferries still cross in a few places, and the old road along the foot of the hills passes small villages and chapels. In autumn, the beech woods turn gold and the river mist lingers in the morning. The weather in this region is mild, with frequent showers, so a waterproof layer is a good idea. A glass of Weser region beer in a small inn makes a good end to the day.