Riga is the largest city in the Baltic states, and it wears its history on its facades. The old town, with its cobbled lanes, Hanseatic merchant houses and church spires, was founded in 1201 by the German bishop Albert, and for centuries the city was a leading trading port. The district of Art Nouveau buildings, built in the early twentieth century, is one of the richest in Europe, with more than seven hundred buildings decorated with masks, sphinxes and swirling ornament. Both areas are on the UNESCO list. About 740,000 people live in the city, so there is no shortage of fuel, hotels or food.
As a place to begin a ride, Riga is straightforward. The roads out to the coast are wide and well kept, and once you pass the suburbs the land flattens into pine forest and farmland. The Vidzeme coast road runs northeast along the Gulf of Riga, with sandy beaches, dunes and small fishing villages. Traffic in the city is typical for a capital, and the trams and cobbles in the old town are slippery when wet, so take care. Park the bike in a secure place.
The Central Market, housed in five huge former Zeppelin hangars, is worth a visit for breakfast: smoked fish, rye bread, pickles, berries and dairy products in great quantity. Latvian food is simple and hearty, with grey peas and bacon, potato pancakes, sour cream and dark bread, and the local balsam, a herbal liqueur, is an acquired taste. The Daugava river runs through the city, and the view from the tower of St Peter's church takes in the whole of the old town and the river.
The best season for riding is late May to early September, when the days are long and the weather mild. In June, it hardly gets dark. Winter is cold and icy, with snow and sub-zero temperatures. The Baltic is not a warm sea, but beaches at Jurmala, just west of the city, are popular in summer. Before leaving, take a short walk through the old town at morning, when the streets are quiet, and then head north into the open.