Ridgway is a small town on the northern edge of the San Juan Mountains, and it sits in one of the most photogenic corners of Colorado. To the south, the peaks of the Sneffels Range rise in a jagged line, often snow-capped, and to the north the land opens to the plateau and the valley of the Uncompahgre River. The view from the road above town, with the mountains framed by cottonwoods and ranch fences, looks so much like a postcard that it has been used as a backdrop in films. The 1969 western True Grit was filmed in the surrounding country, and the red cliffs and aspen groves still look much as they did.
The town grew as a railway junction in the 1880s, where narrow-gauge trains carried ore from the mines of Ouray and Telluride. It is quiet now, with a main street of cafés, galleries and a few shops, and a reservoir nearby with a state park popular for boating. Ranches still graze cattle in the valley, and the air smells of sagebrush and woodsmoke.
For a rider, Ridgway is the gateway to the northern end of the Million Dollar Highway. From here, US 550 runs south to Ouray, a small town in a deep box canyon, often called the Switzerland of America, with hot springs and Victorian buildings at its feet. The approach is gentle at first, with open curves in a wide valley, then tightens as the canyon walls close in, and the road begins to climb. The views along this stretch, with waterfalls dropping from the cliffs and the peaks looming above, are among the best in the state.
The Dallas Divide road to the west climbs through aspen forest toward Telluride, and in late September the leaves turn a blazing yellow, drawing crowds of photographers. Weather in the mountains can change quickly, and afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, so plan to be down from high roads by mid-afternoon. Snow can arrive as early as September.
Fuel is available in Ridgway and in larger Montrose, about thirty-eight kilometres to the north, and prices are lower in Montrose. Ouray has fuel too, but it is smaller and more expensive. Stop at a viewpoint for a few minutes and look south. The mountains here have a way of making a rider feel small.