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Ricken ridge road

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The Ricken pass lies between two worlds. On one side is the Linth plain with its flat valley floor, and on the other is the Toggenburg, a region of green hills, farmsteads and a distinct musical tradition. At about 790 metres, the pass is a saddle rather than a peak, but the approach and descent give a great sense of crossing from one valley character to the next. Behind the ridge you will see the long wall of the Churfirsten and, on clear days, the bright mass of the Säntis farther east.

The Toggenburg is known for its natural yodel and for the hackbrett, a Swiss dulcimer played with small hammers, and for farmhouses that look like they have been there forever. Wattwil, the nearest sizeable town on the eastern side, has about eight thousand people and a history in textiles and later in small industry. The railway between the two valleys passes under the ridge in a long tunnel, built in the early twentieth century to avoid the climb. The old road remains for those who prefer the view.

The ride up from Kaltbrunn or Gommiswald is a series of broad bends with moderate gradients, shaded by forest and framed by meadows. Surface quality is typically good, though patches around the hairpins can be rough after winter. It is not a demanding road, and the real pleasure is in rhythm and scenery. Early mornings give you the best light and the fewest vehicles, and in autumn the mist lies in the valley below as you ride along the ridge.

For practical matters, fuel is available in Wattwil, about five kilometres away, and in the larger towns on the Linth side. The ridge itself has a few farm restaurants and small inns, some of which serve simple dishes with local cheese, sausage and bread, though opening times are irregular. Bring water if the day is warm.

Watch for cattle. The upper pastures have grazing animals in summer, and sometimes they stand on or beside the road. Cyclists use the pass heavily at weekends, so take the corners with some margin. The weather changes quickly on the ridge, with a sunny start giving way to cloud by afternoon, so keep a rain layer handy and an eye on the sky behind the Churfirsten.

Read it in a ride

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