Richmond is the Tasmanian village where the bridge is older than almost anything on the mainland. The sandstone arch across the Coal River was built by convict labour and completed in 1823, and it is the oldest bridge in Australia still in use. Cars cross it, cyclists wobble over it, and ducks paddle underneath, and standing on the grass looking at the weathered golden stone it feels as if the nineteenth century has simply been left in place.
The village sits in the Coal River valley, about twenty-five kilometres north-east of Hobart, in country that is dry by Tasmanian standards and well suited to vines. The soil and the sheltered climate have made the valley a respected wine region, with vineyards producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and tasting rooms are scattered along the roads around the village. For a rider, that is a temptation to be resisted until the end of the day, or at least to be resisted in quantity.
Richmond's convict history is vivid. The old gaol, built in 1825, is one of the oldest in the country and predates the much more famous Port Arthur by several years. It is still standing, with cells, a flogging yard and a kitchen, and a visit gives a sobering picture of how the convict system operated. Elsewhere the village has been kept in a tidy Georgian style, with sandstone cottages, a Catholic church that is among the oldest in the country, and a collection of tearooms and craft shops. It can feel a little like a stage set when the tour buses are in, but early on a weekday morning it is calm and handsome.
The ride in from Hobart goes across the Tasman Bridge and out through the eastern suburbs, joining the road to the airport and then taking quieter country lanes into the village. Roads through the valley are small, with gentle bends and open views, and with some care you can find a loop through the vineyards and back that takes in a few hills without any difficulty. Surfaces are generally fair, though some of the narrower lanes have gravel patches.
You will find a bakery in the village, famous locally for its pies and pastries, and several cafes and a couple of pubs. Fuel is thin on the ground in the village, so fill the tank in Hobart's eastern suburbs, around Lindisfarne, or in Sorell on the way to the east coast, and you will not have to think about it again. In autumn, the poplars and oaks turn yellow and the village looks its best.