Three ruined castles stare down at Ribeauvillé from the first slopes of the Vosges, and each belonged to the same family. The lords of Ribeaupierre ruled this corner of Alsace for centuries, building the Saint-Ulrich, Girsberg and Haut-Ribeaupierre castles one above the other on the ridge, and from the town's main street you can see all three on a clear day, like a set of broken teeth. A footpath climbs to them, and the view from the top, over a sea of vineyards to the Rhine plain and the Black Forest beyond, is the best reward.
The town itself is a handsome, brightly painted place of about five thousand people, with half-timbered houses in pastel shades, a Butchers' Tower with a bell, a long main street and fountains at every turn. It lies on the Route des Vins d'Alsace, and the surrounding slopes produce some of the best Riesling and Gewurztraminer in the region, from grand cru sites such as the Osterberg and Geisberg. The vintners' cellars along the street offer tastings, and a glass of dry Riesling with a slice of flammekueche, the thin Alsatian tarte with cream, onions and bacon, is hard to beat.
A curious tradition marks the first Sunday of September. The Pfifferdaj, the day of the pipers, commemorates the medieval minstrels who were given special rights by the Ribeaupierre lords, and a procession in historic costume, with music and wine, fills the streets. It is a lively time to be here, though crowded.
For the rider, the Route des Vins is a gentle, winding road that threads between the vineyards, with views across the plain and the Vosges rising on the other side. The surface is smooth, the bends are easy, and the speed limits in the villages are low, so this is a road for savouring rather than racing. At harvest, in late September and October, tractors and workers fill the lanes, and in summer the heat and tourist traffic can be heavy. Spring, with its fresh green vines, and October, with the golden leaves, are the best seasons.
Riquewihr and Bergheim, a few kilometres away, are other lovely wine villages worth a visit. For fuel, check in town or at the edge of it, and the larger Sainte-Marie-aux-Mines, twelve kilometres west, is the next real centre. Parking in the old town is limited, so use the car parks near the entrance.