Riaño is a town that was moved. In the 1980s the Spanish government built a large dam on the Esla river, and when the reservoir filled in 1987, it drowned the old town, along with eight other villages in the valley, in the face of years of protest from the people who lived there. The residents were resettled in a new town built on the shore, with modern streets and a church rebuilt on higher ground, and the old stone houses disappeared beneath the water. In dry years, the water drops and the shapes of walls reappear. About five hundred people live in the new town today.
The setting is superb. The reservoir lies in a high valley on the southern side of the Cantabrian Mountains, with the limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa rising to the north and the rounded hills of the Mampodre range to the south. The mountains here are a refuge for wildlife, including brown bears, wolves, chamois and capercaillie, and the forests of oak, beech and holly are rich. The area is known for its cheeses, including the blue cheese of Valdeón, produced in the high valleys nearby, and for hearty mountain cooking, with beans, chorizo and roasted lamb.
For a rider, Riaño is a fine crossroads. The road north climbs to the Puerto del Pontón, over a thousand metres, then descends through the dramatic Desfiladero de los Beyos, a narrow gorge, toward Asturias, a magnificent mountain ride with tight bends and rock walls close to the road. The Puerto de San Glorio, to the northwest, crosses to Cantabria and Potes, with long views of the Picos. Surfaces are generally good, but fog, rain and snow are common, and passes can close in winter. Livestock sometimes stand in the road, so go carefully.
Fuel is the thing to remember. The nearest large town is Guardo, about twenty-four kilometres to the south, and stations in the mountains are scarce, so fill the tank beforehand. Cafés and restaurants in Riaño serve a good menu del día, and the lakeshore is a pleasant place to rest. The best months are May to October, with autumn colours especially beautiful. Carry warm layers, as even summer nights are cold.