You hear the Rhine Falls before you see them, a steady roar rising through the trees as you walk down from the car park at Neuhausen. Then the river appears, wide, green and suddenly frantic, throwing itself over a limestone ledge about twenty-three metres high and roughly a hundred and fifty metres across. By volume it is the largest plain waterfall in Europe, and in early summer, when the Alps send meltwater down the Rhine, the flow is huge, filling the air with spray and a cold, mineral smell.
The falls are young in geological terms. The river took this course after the last ice age pushed it out of its old bed, and it has been cutting through the Jurassic rock ever since. The pillars of stone standing in the middle of the cascade are what remains of harder layers that the water has not yet removed. Goethe came in 1797 and wrote about the spectacle, and painters and poets have been following ever since. Above the falls on the Zürich bank sits Schloss Laufen, a castle with a viewing platform built almost on top of the water, and boats cross in summer to a rock in the middle of the stream.
As a photo stop, this is easy and rewarding. The best light is usually late in the day, when the sun low in the west catches the spray and sometimes throws a rainbow across it. Mornings are quieter and cooler, and in overcast weather the colour of the water deepens. A tripod is overkill, but a steady hand and a wide lens help. Be ready for crowds in summer, especially at weekends, when tour groups arrive in numbers.
Neuhausen, with about ten thousand people, has fuel, cafés and shops, and Schaffhausen, the old town on the Rhine just downstream, is worth a wander for its painted houses and medieval lanes. There are restaurants overlooking the falls, though prices reflect the view. Motorcycle parking is available near the entrance, but check signs and fees.
Mind the spray if you walk the lower platforms, because it soaks quickly. A light jacket with a hood is better than sunglasses and a smile, and your camera will thank you for a lens cloth.