In 1736, Crown Prince Frederick of Prussia, the future Frederick the Great, moved into the palace at Rheinsberg with his wife, and he later said the years he spent here were the happiest of his life. Away from the stern court of his father, he read philosophy, played the flute, corresponded with Voltaire and surrounded himself with friends. The palace, rebuilt for him in an elegant Rococo style on the shore of the Grienericksee, is still the jewel of this small town, and the park around it, with its avenues, sculptures and views across the water, is perfect for a slow walk.
Rheinsberg has literary associations too. In 1912 Kurt Tucholsky published a light, witty novella called Rheinsberg: A Picture Book for Lovers, about a young couple's weekend trip to the town, and it became a bestseller. The town also has a tradition of ceramics, and you can find local pottery in shops near the palace.
There is one more surprising piece of history. Just north of town, in the forest by the Stechlinsee, stood the first nuclear power station of the GDR, which operated from 1966 until 1990 and has been in the process of being dismantled ever since. It is a strange contrast to the Rococo elegance of the palace, but it says something about the twentieth century in this quiet corner of Brandenburg.
The landscape around Rheinsberg is a world of lakes and forests. The land here was shaped by the glaciers of the last ice age, which left behind hundreds of lakes, sandy soils and gentle hills, and the area merges seamlessly into the Mecklenburg Lake District to the north. The roads are quiet, winding between lakes and through pine and beech forests, often lined with old trees. Some village streets still have cobbles, and the sandy verges can be soft. Rheinsberg has fuel, cafés and restaurants, including fish from the lakes. Summer is the busiest time; spring and autumn are quieter and very pretty.