Reykjavik is the sort of capital that you could walk across in an afternoon, and that is part of the charm. It sits on a windswept peninsula in the southwest of Iceland, with painted corrugated-iron houses, the great concrete spire of the Hallgrímskirkja church, and a harbour backed by the long snowy ridge of Esja across the bay. About two thirds of Icelanders live in this region, so by Icelandic standards it is a metropolis.
The city is also a place where geology is part of daily life. Hot water for heating comes from underground geothermal fields, so the tap water sometimes smells slightly of sulphur, and the swimming pools, heated by the same source, are the social hub of every neighbourhood. People go to the pool in all weather, and soaking in a hot tub with locals in the rain is the best way to see the city. The country was settled by Norse seafarers in the ninth century, and the first Viking settler, Ingólfr Arnarson, is said to have chosen the site after throwing his high seat pillars overboard and following where they washed up.
The Ring Road, Route 1, starts here and circles the country, and the stretch to Vík crosses the south coast, with waterfalls such as Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. The road is paved, usually well maintained, but wind is the great hazard: gusts can knock bikes sideways and close roads, so check the forecast and speed warnings on the road. Rain, fog and cold can arrive at any time, even in summer, and the best months are June to August, with nearly endless daylight. Winter brings ice, snow and short days.
Reykjavik has everything: fuel at stations around the city, many workshops, outdoor shops for gear, and endless cafes. Fuel stations are spaced out once you leave the capital, so fill up regularly. Try a hot dog with crispy onions from a stand near the harbour, a staple of Icelandic life, and bring waterproof layers, gloves and a spare visor.