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Reit im Winkl

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Reit im Winkl is the snow-sure village at the end of the Chiemgau Alps, a pocket of Bavaria wedged into the corner where Germany meets Austria. At about 700 metres, it sits in a high, green bowl among steep peaks, with the Kaisergebirge, the jagged limestone range of the Tyrolean Kaiser mountains, standing across the border to the south. The snow here is dependable in winter, and the place has produced a number of Olympic skiers.

The German Alpine Road passes through, from Ruhpolding by way of the quiet little lake chain of the Weitsee, the Mittersee and the Lödensee, whose clear water mirrors the forest and the cliffs. The road is smooth, with long bends, gentle gradients and wide views, and it is among the finest stretches in the Bavarian Alps. Cows with bells graze in the meadows, and the farmhouses have carved balconies full of geraniums. It can be busy in summer, so go early.

The village has about two and a half thousand people, with a church, a few shops and many guesthouses. Fuel is available, though for a larger choice, Grassau, about twelve kilometres north, and the Austrian town of Kössen, a short ride away, are good options. The Winklmoosalm, a high plateau above the village, is a great spot for walking, with alpine pastures and mountain huts.

The village is also known for its Gebirgsschützen and for its crafts, and in the main street you can find wood carvings, hand-woven clothes and local cheeses. The food is hearty, with dumplings, roast pork, and Kaiserschmarrn, a torn pancake with raisins and plum compote, that is a classic Alpine dessert. In summer, the evenings are warm, and the smell of hay and wood smoke hangs in the air. In autumn the larches turn gold and the light is superb.

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