Red Mountain Pass crosses the San Juan Mountains at 11,018 feet, and the road over it, US 550 between Ouray and Silverton, is part of the stretch known as the Million Dollar Highway, one of the most famous and most frightening roads in the United States. The old mining district of Red Mountain lay to the south, and the rusty remains of mills and shafts can still be seen on the slopes, where the Yankee Girl and other mines once produced silver.
The road was built in the 1880s to serve the mines, and the origin of its nickname is disputed: some say it cost a million dollars a mile, others that the fill contains gold ore, and others that the views are worth a million dollars. Whichever, the road is spectacular, a ledge cut into the cliffs, with no guardrails in places and drops of hundreds of feet, and a series of tight hairpins. The towns at either end are beautiful: Ouray, in a narrow box canyon ringed by cliffs, is known as the Switzerland of America, with hot springs and Victorian buildings, and Silverton is a restored mining town at the end of the narrow-gauge railroad from Durango.
For a rider, the pass is a challenge and a joy. The surface is paved and generally good, but narrow, with sharp bends and blind corners, and the edges are unprotected, so concentration is essential. Traffic includes large trucks, RVs and tourists, and the weather can change in minutes, with sudden thunderstorms in summer afternoons and snow at any time of year. Ice and avalanches close the road in winter, and avalanche control may stop traffic for hours. Altitude affects both bike and rider, with a loss of power and shortness of breath.
The nearest stations are at Ouray, on the north side, and Silverton, on the south, so fill the tank and carry a warm layer. Both towns have cafés, restaurants and bakeries, and a cup of hot chocolate in Silverton is a fine reward.
Go early, before the clouds build, and take the descent slowly, using the engine to brake. The views of the red mountains, the snow patches and the deep valleys below are some of the finest in Colorado.