There is a moment on the road to Albalate del Arzobispo when the plateau seems to open and a river gorge appears below, and that is the valley of the Martín, one of the hidden corners of Teruel. The river has cut a deep, winding canyon through the limestone of the Bajo Aragón, and the villages that line it, Albalate, Ariño, Alloza, have been farming and mining here for centuries. The Recodo de los Chaparros, the bend of the holm oaks, is a shelter in this country, and it belongs to the group that makes the Río Martín one of Aragon's cultural parks.
The riding around here is easy, quiet and rewarding. The roads follow the valley, climb over low ridges and cross the plateau, passing through fields of cereals and almond groves, with the occasional oak wood. The surface is mostly good, the bends are gentle and the traffic light. In summer the heat in the valley is fierce, and in winter fog can settle in the bottoms, so April, May, September and October are best.
Albalate del Arzobispo has a long history, and the name tells it: the town was once an estate of the archbishops of Zaragoza, who built a palace there. Ariño is known for its coal mines, open-cast pits that scarred the landscape and gave work to generations, though mining there has stopped. Alloza, smaller, holds a church and a few houses. Andorra, fifteen kilometres away, is the largest town in the area, with nearly eight thousand people, and has fuel and supplies.
As in every Levantine site, the paintings are small, faded and fragile, and visits are managed by the park. Ask at the information point in Albalate or at one of the villages, and wear sturdy shoes. The best light is in the morning. Take water, as the walk can be hot and dry, and do not touch the walls.