Reckong Peo is the district headquarters of Kinnaur, in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, and it sits on the old Hindustan-Tibet Road, a route that clings to the walls of the Sutlej gorge. The town is at roughly 2,700 metres, among apple orchards and pine, and the peak that dominates the view is Kinner Kailash, a rocky, glittering mountain of about 6,000 metres that is sacred to Hindus and Buddhists. On a clear morning the first light on its flanks is something to see.
The ride up to here is dramatic in itself. The road follows the Sutlej river from Shimla through some of the steepest country in the western Himalaya, with cliffs overhead, hairpins beside the drop and long stretches that are carved into bare rock. Landslides are common, especially during the monsoon, so check conditions and be prepared for delays. Mornings are generally clearer, and the surface can be broken, with loose stones and water running across the road.
Above the town is Kalpa, a quieter village with wooden houses and Buddhist and Hindu temples, which is where many riders choose to stay for the view. Kinnaur is known for apples, apricots and the chilgoza pine, whose nuts are a local delicacy. The valley has a unique culture that blends Hindu and Buddhist traditions, with its own dialects and its own distinctive woollen caps.
Practical matters count here. Reckong Peo has fuel, shops, banks and places to eat, and it is the last large settlement before the remote Spiti valley. Fuel further on is limited, with the main station at Kaza, so fill the tank and carry spare if your bike has a small range. Carry cash, check permit requirements for the border areas before you set off, and allow plenty of time, because distances here are measured in hours, not kilometres.
The Spiti Valley circuit starts here, and this is the moment to check tyres, brakes and luggage. After this the road climbs toward Nako and the cold desert, and the lush green apple orchards give way to bare, windswept mountains.