Raufarhofn is a small fishing village on the north-east coast of Iceland, on the flat, empty Melrakkaslétta peninsula, a few kilometres south of the Arctic Circle. It was once one of the busiest herring ports in the country, and in the middle of the twentieth century the harbour was crowded with boats and the surrounding area full of salting stations. Today only a couple of hundred people live here, and many of the old buildings stand empty, which gives the place a faintly wistful atmosphere.
On the hill above the village stands the Arctic Henge, a modern stone monument that is still being built. It is intended to work as a sundial, aligned with the midnight sun and drawing on the old Norse mythology, and from the top you get wide views over the sea and across the lava and bog of the surrounding country. Not far to the north is Rifstangi, the northernmost point of the Icelandic mainland.
The landscape is very open, with low hills, shallow lakes, driftwood on the beaches and a huge sky. Birds nest here in huge numbers during the summer, including whooper swans, arctic terns and eiders, and the marshes are full of life. The light in the middle of the summer is long and golden, and the sun just dips below the horizon for a short time around midnight.
The riding is remote. Roads here are quiet and wide, and some sections are gravel, particularly on the minor routes, so check your route in advance. Wind is constant, and in winter snow and ice make the roads treacherous. Mobile signal can be patchy, and services are few and far between.
The village normally has a petrol pump and a shop, but opening hours are limited, and the next large towns are a long way away. Fill the tank earlier in the day, and bring food if you are planning to stay. It is a place for those who like remote country, silence and the feeling of having reached the edge.