Ratzeburg's lakes are long, narrow and clean, the leftovers of ice that gouged out troughs across this part of Schleswig-Holstein, and the road along them is one of the nicest pieces of easy riding between Hamburg and the Baltic. It follows the shore, rising and falling over small bluffs, and gives glimpses of water through the trees, with sailing boats and rowing eights moving in the distance. In the calm hours of the morning, the surface of the lake looks like polished metal.
The rowing is not an accident. Ratzeburg has been one of Germany's centres of the sport since the middle of the twentieth century, and the long, straight lake is ideal for it. A famous coach worked here and trained crews that won Olympic gold, and you will often see slim boats gliding on the water with a trainer cycling or motoring alongside. On weekends there are regattas, and the shore comes alive with spectators.
Behind the lakeshore, the country is gentle and rural: rolling fields, woods and neat villages with brick churches. This area was once on the edge of the Iron Curtain, since the border with East Germany lay just a few kilometres to the east, and the quiet that fell on the region after 1945 has left it undeveloped and peaceful. The road is smooth for most of its length, with a mix of long, easy bends and short, sharp corners where the road dips to cross a stream. In summer there are cyclists and families heading for the lake beaches, and the speed limits through the villages are enforced.
If you want to swim, there are public beaches along the lake in warm weather, and the water is clear enough for it, though you should check local signs and stay near the lifeguarded areas. Ratzeburg itself has about fourteen thousand people and plenty of places for fuel, food and coffee, so you do not need to plan around services. The town's old centre on its island is a short walk away, and it is worth a visit. Come on a weekday in June or September if you can, when the water is warm enough for a dip and the roads have room on them.