The return over the Ratenpass in the evening is one of the small pleasures of riding near Zürich. From the Sihlsee side or from Hirzel, the road climbs gradually to 1,077 metres, and the day's heat begins to leave the air as you rise. The forest gives way to open pasture near the top, where cows graze in the late light and the Mythen and the Alps stand in the south as a dark, jagged line. It is a place to feel the day wind down.
The pass sits in the border country between Zug and Schwyz, and the ridge has a quiet, workaday feel. Farms with deep roofs dot the slope, and cheese is made in the old way in some of the huts. Down in the valleys, moors hold wet ground that has been protected for decades, and the lingering smell of cut hay mixes with the cool air from the woods. In summer the evening sky can glow red over the lake of Zurich, and on the descent toward Unterägeri the lake of Ägeri appears below, calm and dark.
On the road, the climb from the Hirzel side is smooth and flowing, with moderate gradients and open bends. The surface is usually good, and speeds are comfortable. As you head down toward Ägeri, the road tightens a little and passes through forest, where shadows can hide damp patches even in summer. Take care at dusk, because deer and foxes cross the road, and cyclists returning from the hills may not have lights.
Fuel is available in Unterägeri, about six kilometres from the pass, and in Schindellegi or Biberbrugg on the other side. A mountain inn sits near the top in the season, but opening hours vary, so do not count on a late meal. A flask of coffee or a bar of chocolate in the pannier is a better plan.
Temperatures drop quickly after sunset, even in summer. At 1,077 metres, the air is a few degrees cooler than at the lake, and a light layer under your jacket makes the descent far more comfortable. On clear nights, you may see stars appear above the ridge before you reach the valley, and that is the best moment of the day.